Extreme Catamarca: a 4x4 journey that connects the Puna with the Andes

It's different, special, it's part of the Earth's history. It's a magnet, attracting the curious, scientists, and travelers. It's immense; it makes everyone else seem tiny. It's wild, cold, and hot all at once. It's extreme, it challenges. With this information and a seven-day travel plan, we loaded up the 4x4 to begin our journey through Catamarca.

The journey begins in the capital of Tucumán. Matías, the guide, checks the truck's cargo before setting off. In the bed are food supplies, four jerrycans of gasoline, a first-aid kit, and our personal luggage. With the check-in complete, we take National Route 38 west. To reach the border with Catamarca, we must first cross fields of sugarcane and lemons, then ascend the Aconquija mountain range, a 100-kilometer-long system that divides the provinces.

On the political border lies Aconquija National Park , a 94,000-hectare area and one of the most biodiverse protected areas in the country. Here, the Yungas (mountain rainforest) and the High Andes coexist, with peaks reaching up to 6,000 meters. During the ascent, surrounded by dense vegetation, we admired the summits. On the descent, now in Catamarca province, we traveled through a transitional mountain zone, with arid hills and scrubland. It is neither the central Calchaquí Valley nor the high Puna, but rather an Andean area transitioning to grassland/steppe.

The journey continues along the Chilca Pass, a mountainous stretch connecting the valleys to the Puna plateau. The road is winding and scenic, with arid hills and deep ravines. Through the window, we take in the steepness of the slope, its hairpin turns, and the vast horizon. The pass is notable for being a historic regional communication route and for its geological formations that illustrate the transition between diverse environments in northwestern Argentina. Midway through the day, under a radiant sun, we make a slight detour to the town of Londres to visit the El Shincal de Quimivil archaeological site .

The museum is part of the Inca archaeological complex. It displays artifacts and remains that tell the story of this ancient administrative and ceremonial capital of the Inca Empire in southern Tawantinsuyu (15th-16th centuries).

After a dose of Inca history and culture, we continued our journey. At night, having covered 500 kilometers, we arrived at El Peñón, in the department of Antofagasta de la Sierra , the base for our next excursions.

Base at El Peñón

El Peñón boasts a strategic location, basic amenities, and convenient access to the main attractions of the Catamarca Puna region. From here, we set out over the next three days to discover its iconic sites . On the first day, early in the morning, we visited the Jote, Alumbrera, and Antofagasta volcanoes; all three share a distinctive black color and conical shape. Then we stopped at the Piedras Campanas (Bell Stones), volcanic basalt rocks that transport us back in time.

The route takes us to Antofagasta de la Sierra , at 3,300 meters above sea level, the main town in the Catamarca Puna region. The town is surrounded by volcanoes, high-altitude lakes, salt flats, and lava fields. A short distance away, from a high viewpoint, we can see the Antofalla Salt Flat, one of the highest and largest in the country.

The vast white expanse contrasts sharply with the surrounding mountains, which are a mix of orange, violet, green, yellow, black, and brown. Sheltered from the wind and with hunger gnawing at the door, we set up a picnic on the edge of the salt flat. During lunch, the guide introduced us to the wildlife of the puna, where vicuñas, guanacos, llamas, vizcachas, and Andean foxes are common sights, but not the puma.

The next natural landmark is the Antofalla salt flat . On foot, we visited the Ojos de Campo (Eyes of the Field), a series of small natural lagoons in shades of orange, blue, black, and light blue. They originate from the saline groundwater present in the depression of the salt flat.

On a new day, following the must-see attractions, we set off for the Galán volcano, a hidden gem of the region . It boasts an enormous volcanic caldera nearly 45 kilometers in diameter, one of the largest on the planet. Inside, there are geothermal fields with fumaroles , volcanic formations, vast high-altitude plains, and diamond-colored lagoons. In the afternoon, we visited Laguna Pabellón and Laguna Grande , both high-altitude lakes with cold, brackish waters, home to flamingos and Andean birds.

The third day in El Peñón culminates with a visit to the Carachi Pampa volcano and its lagoon . The landscape presents a striking contrast: on one side, the water and the red mountains; on the other, the black volcanic gravel. The road winds through a vast boulder field to the Campo de Piedra Pómez (Pumice Stone Field ). This famous geological feature was formed over 100,000 years ago by the explosive eruption of the Blanco or Robledo volcano, which spewed out large quantities of frothy lava. This material cooled rapidly, trapping gas bubbles that created porous, lightweight rock, which was sculpted by wind and erosion over millennia.

The journey continues along the Cuesta de las Papas (Potato Hill) towards Fiambalá , where the arid, high-altitude desert transitions into verdant, rocky valleys. On the descent, around midday, we stop at some natural hot springs for lunch. As the last rays of sunlight fade, we cross a rocky river several times, which leads us directly to the Fiambalá Valley.

Road to Fiambalá

The base of operations for the second stage of the journey is Fiambalá, an icon of western Catamarca. At 1500 meters above sea level, it is the gateway to the Andes Mountains and the Route of the Six-Thousanders. Its rural identity is based on artisanal wine production and the cultivation of walnut and olive trees. Mining contrasts with Andean muleteering. The climate is dry and sunny.

Nearby, the Saujil and Tatón dunes stand out , enormous sand dunes ideal for sandboarding. Half an hour away, we visited the Fiambalá Hot Springs, with their natural pools of warm, mineral-rich water , perfect for admiring the valley and the blue sky of Catamarca.

We also explored the Adobe Route , a 55-kilometer cultural and architectural circuit that connects Tinogasta and Fiambalá. Here lie colonial buildings over 300 years old—chapels, mansions, and ranches—built with mud, straw, and manure, providing coolness in summer and warmth in winter.

The final stage takes us deep into the Andes. Along a gravel road and through steppe-like terrain, we journey towards the Balcón del Pissis viewpoint, at 4200 meters above sea level. This renowned high-mountain viewpoint offers some of the most breathtaking views of the mountain range. From here, we observe a dreamlike landscape dotted with colorful lagoons. Overwhelmed with tranquility, we appreciate the Andean giants: Mount Pissis (6793 m), Ojos del Salado (6893 m), Tres Cruces ( 6749 m), Bonete Chico (6759 m) , and Incahuasi (6638 m). All are elite peaks, recognized worldwide. We then arrive at Laguna Verde to see another stretch of coastline and enjoy a privileged view of the Los Patos volcano and Ojos del Salado.

The return route to Tucumán takes us along the Cuesta de Capillita . This historic mountain road, in the heart of Catamarca, connects the valleys with the Capillitas mining region. The winding road climbs between hills of reddish and ochre hues, high-altitude pastures, and flocks of sheep. After reaching the summit, we enter Mina Capillitas, a historic mining site in the country, known for rhodochrosite , the semi-precious stone that is the emblem of the province. Exploited since pre-Hispanic times and with greater development from the 20th century onward, the mine was key to the regional economy and today retains significant heritage value, associated with the mining history and cultural identity of Capillitas.

By Gonzalo Gaviña. Published in the newspaper La Nación.